Le Puy en Velay – St Privat d’Allier (26kms)
After my long-anticipated reunion with Jess at Charles de Gaulle airport in Paris, we made our way to Lyon on the TGV and then caught 2 trains into the French mountains, finally arriving at the starting point of the GR65 pilgrims route – Le Puy en Velay. We spent 2 nights in a hotel preparing for the journey ahead. On Wed 15 May, as the morning light filtered through the grey skies above Le Puy, we set out on our eagerly anticipated 750km pilgrimage towards St Jean Pied de Port. The first day to St. Privat was an ambitious 26-kilometre hike and the weight of my backpack felt burdensome as we ascended countless hills and stairs to the magnificent Notre-Dame cathedral for the pilgrims’ mass. Despite the cold, the hour-long ceremony with the beautiful chandeliers and stained glass windows was a serene experience, shared with a lovely retired couple from Boston, Mary-Beth and Mark. They taught us a new and very valuable use for duct tape- preventing blisters on hot spots which we have since tried and tested, and confirm it’s indeed true! Following the pilgrims’ blessings, we set out through the open gate in the cathedral floor at around 8 am, stopping for a much-needed espresso before leaving town.
The initial kilometers were a steep climb in the cold, rainy weather, but our trusty ponchos proved invaluable, although managing them flapping in the wind and snagging on our hiking poles was no easy task. After 9 kilometers of walking through picturesque countryside, we reached the charming village of St. Christophe-sur-Dolaison, where we paused for a much needed snack and another espresso at a cozy café. A quick stop two kilometers outside town for a final coffee and Coke rejuvenated us for the long journey still ahead.
Eight more kilometers, including another challenging ascent, led us to Monbonnet, a quaint hilltop village where we sought refuge from the rain in a welcoming bar, enjoying a refreshing drink.
Setting off in blustery weather for the final 7-kilometer stretch to St. Privat-d’Allier at 2 pm, we soon found ourselves caught in a hailstorm on the mountain top. Taking shelter in a nearby farm shed, with the welcome company of a wet border collie also looking for refuge, I reflected on my tired body and the weather conditions, questioning my decision to leave my comfortable life and embark on this ambituous journey.
Thankfully, the hail eventually subsided, and the sun emerged as we descended towards St. Privat. The last part of the trail was rugged, with rocky, steep, and muddy terrain challenging our weary legs and back. After a grueling 8-hour journey, we finally arrived at La Cabourne gîte, where we shared a room with Brendon, a lively semi-retired traveler from Perth. Our evening was filled with laughter as Brendon shared amusing anecdotes, including a tale about his missing silk liner.
A delicious dinner of local lentils, sausage, potatoes, cheese, and dessert was a welcome treat after a long day’s walk. We sat at a table with three fellow Australians, from Hobart and Victoria, sharing stories and camaraderie as we reflected on the day’s challenges and triumphs. I went to bed feeling accomplished and apprehensive for the challenges ahead.
The Pilgrims Progress 